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Bigmagic

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Reply with quote  #1 
I'm having this issue with finishing my arrows. I'm using a waterborne gloss as a final finish. And I have been using hot-melt to put them on. As you can see in the photos, I have difficulty getting the glue from around the nock and the tip. Sometimes it even pulls the finish from the shaft. Sorry about the one blurry photo, but you can see the mess I made in it. Any advice? Maybe a different glue or a better technique for applying the hot-melt? I've tried using less glue but I still get this...and I try to wipe the glue right away before it gets hard. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Those are on wood arrows. IMG_20200805_100525783.jpg  IMG_20200805_100603137.jpg 
Old3Toe

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hot melt for points, super glue for nocks.

Don't see any pics attached, but then the rest of my reply didn’t post either at first....  Anyway hotmelt glue adheres great to bare wood so just clean up your point tapers and you should be good to go there. Nock end may be trickier if fletched up, but I’ve had fine success with any type of superglue I’ve tried. 

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Jet Wolverine 69@28, Kramer Autumn 62@27, Jet Leopard 63@28, Howard Hill Wesley Special 57@27, Jet Warthog 69@28. Two Tracks Echo 60@27.

longcruise

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Reply with quote  #3 
You could do your tapers after finishing.   I fletch with super glue but use duco to glue nocks.  The duco is easy to work with if a nock is broken.  I carefully and mildly crush the broken nock with pliers and then pull it off piece by piece. 

Super glue might be easily done too but I'll leave it to 3toe to describe his method. 

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Tom M

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Reply with quote  #4 
For points I used either the hot melt or the low temp melt used for carbons. For nocks I use what glue I am fletching with, either Bohning Fletch Tite or Saunders NPV glue. When I finished my cap dip, cresting, and clear coat I would run the nock end in my taper tool to remove any excess finish. Two reasons, so glue would work and to make sure taper is true, no nock wobble. 
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Sun City, Az. by way of San Diego, Ca. Bear TD's Wes Wallace Royal LB, ILF risers and various limbs, Vintage Works 1962 Kodiak reproduction made to my specs

I hunt public land.
Old3Toe

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Reply with quote  #5 

Super glue is like any other glue near as I can tell... only faster.  

Put 2-3 good drops of superglue inside nock. Put nock on taper, twist in place to spread glue, align, press in place and let dry for several minutes. Done. You’re ready to shoot.

Remove just like you would any other nock. I like to warm with a lighter for a few seconds and then pull off with pliers. Detail scrape nock taper as needed with a sharp knife, then re-glue. Super glue is no harder/easier than anything else. 


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“Take the good where you find it, be honest with yourself, and let the results be your guide.”

Hebrews 11:1

Jet Wolverine 69@28, Kramer Autumn 62@27, Jet Leopard 63@28, Howard Hill Wesley Special 57@27, Jet Warthog 69@28. Two Tracks Echo 60@27.

Tom M

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Reply with quote  #6 
Back to the mess. When I glue on points I keep the point hot then press the arrow in a hole I have drilled in my bench top for this purpose. I spin the shaft and clean off glue with a paper towel. I can’t explain the glue taking off the finish unless it’s a compatibility issue. Only had that happen when I crested to close to nock. Then agian I install nocks right after I spray the cap. Like I said before I clean up the nock taper first. As said a few drops of glue is all needed.
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Sun City, Az. by way of San Diego, Ca. Bear TD's Wes Wallace Royal LB, ILF risers and various limbs, Vintage Works 1962 Kodiak reproduction made to my specs

I hunt public land.
chuckc

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Reply with quote  #7 
Are you cleaning or sanding your arrow shafts before the finish ?  It almost looks like it is not adhering well to the shaft.  For tips, i use hot melt that i heat and spply to the shaft, add the heated point, press, spin about 90 degrees to seat, cool in water and in a couple minutes trim any excess off with a razor knife. 
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ChuckC

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I did too !

Madison, Wisconsin.   Public land hunter
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Reply with quote  #8 
I’m rather messy to begin with. I’ve just started experimenting with wood arrows so I’ve been doing a lot of removing and reinstalling points with hot melt. I heat the glue, apply to the taper. I immediately heat the point while holding with pliers then press it on while twisting. I then immediately dunk it in cool water, wait a few seconds, then roll the ring of glue toward the point. Comes right off usually as an intact ring of glue. No smearing but still pliable enough.
Bigmagic

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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckc
Are you cleaning or sanding your arrow shafts before the finish ?  It almost looks like it is not adhering well to the shaft.  For tips, i use hot melt that i heat and spply to the shaft, add the heated point, press, spin about 90 degrees to seat, cool in water and in a couple minutes trim any excess off with a razor knife. 


Chuck, I clean them with 1000 steel wool before I do anything with them. Are you saying the hot melt should not take the finish off?

I never dipped my points in cold water after applying hot melt to them, Maybe I'll try that before I switch to another glue.

As far as the nocks, I am going to switch to super glue. I was using Blazer Bond on my fletching but I am not as steady as I use to be so I switched to fletch tape, and it's easy for me. Maybe I'll try it on my nocks. I didn't know you could warm the nocks with a lighter and pull them off. I'm all for whatever works the easiest.

Thanks everyone for your help.
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Reply with quote  #10 
Superglue will make a mess of some plastics. 
Steve Graf

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Reply with quote  #11 
I heat the tip and affix it to the shaft as others do.  But I wipe the hot glue away with a paper towel before dipping the point in water to cool it.  Makes a nicer job and is easier than dealing with the glue after it cools, imo.
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