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hammerstone

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Reply with quote  #1 
I'm seeing so many ads saying tillered three under in classifieds . so what are the ramifications of shooting a recurve tillered three under , split fingered ? when I built self bows I always tillered split and could shoot most without a nock point at all . The reason i'm asking is that I bought a bow without knowing it was tillered three under . the way I see it there could be no more than an inch
difference in the two . Is it going to explode in my face , come out of tiller or will I just shoot it split and go on with my life ? 
Swampwalker

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Reply with quote  #2 
I'd say door #3.
hammerstone

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Reply with quote  #3 
Is that the one where Carol Merrill is now standing?
James Calamaris

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Reply with quote  #4 
Just check the tiller measurements. If it’s an even filler it’s a three under. If it’s an 1/8 to 1/4” more on the top it’s split finger. I have bows tillered both ways and shoot them split finger with a slight adjustment of my nock point.
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Jim Calamaris 
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aromakr

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Reply with quote  #5 
Jim is correct, adjust the nock point accordingly.
All that nocking point does is find the sweet spot where both limbs return to battery in unison, when being shot by YOU. The way you grip the bow and string effect nocking point, as does the diameter of the arrow shaft if you nock under the nock set.

Bob

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hammerstone

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Reply with quote  #6 
Thanks guys , I knew this was the place to ask this question . The guy already apologized for not listing the bow as three under so , I already know it is . I told him I didn't really care because I was going to shoot it my way no matter .
I just wanted to hear someone say they are doing the same . Lot of knowledge on this site , I just wish more recurve guys would chime in .
hammerstone

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Reply with quote  #7 
All that being said, has anyone seen the key to door number 3?
thumper

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Reply with quote  #8 
I shoot split and have a bow or two that's tillered even for three under. The last recurve i had was  56" Helms Deep and it was tillered three under. Honestly, I think they may even tune easier for me. I tend to put a lot of pressure on my middle finger and little on my top (index) finger, so maybe that's why? 

Either way, you would probably have never known if it wasn't written on it. It can't matter too much, look at the guys who stringwalk. Some of their bows sounds like a can of nails being dropped on concrete but they still seem to shoot alright. 
hammerstone

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Reply with quote  #9 
Good point Thumper
Tom M

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Reply with quote  #10 
If I remember correctly 3under tiller is “even tiller” I shoot Split just adjust my nock point. But, I an’it that great of a shot anymore so probably doesn’t make a difference 
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Sun City, Az. by way of San Diego, Ca. Bear TD's Wes Wallace Royal LB, ILF risers and various limbs, Vintage Works 1962 Kodiak reproduction made to my specs

I hunt public land.
Clydebow

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Reply with quote  #11 
I have bows tillered for both. On the ones I have, it doesn't make any difference. 
Bisch

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Reply with quote  #12 
I shoot split, and have all of my bows tilled even (3-under) when they are built.

Bisch

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Primal Tech longbow 50#@29”
Primal Tech recurve 50#@29”
Sarrels Blueridge longbow 50#@29”
Sarrels Bobcatt TD recurve 50#@29.5"
Rob Green selfbow 47#@29”
Lonnie Dye composite 48#@29”

I hail from about 4hrs southwest of Tim King! [biggrin]
hammerstone

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Reply with quote  #13 
Wow ! You people are the best . Thank you so much .
Bisch , that says it all .
fdp

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Reply with quote  #14 
 It's strictly a selling point.

 Folks were shooting bows very effectively stringwalking and shooting 3 under long before anybody cared how they were tillered.

 Tiller is  one of the most talked, most misunderstood non-issues in the current "traditional" archery community.

 
Yehwa

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Reply with quote  #15 
I remember when it was called the Apache draw.  Or gun barreling. 🏹👍
chuckc

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Reply with quote  #16 
Fdp. To be fair, draw weight, spine, feather size, arrow weight and probably the color undies we wear has also been around forever but as we develop more knowledge, not to be confused with experience, we can get more verbose about the more technical aspects of the sport.

"They" have, however, been shooting three under, string or face walking, and using other aiming techniques for a long long time, and arrows did indeed fly.

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ChuckC

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I did too !

Madison, Wisconsin.   Public land hunter
fdp

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Reply with quote  #17 
  You are indeed correct Chuck without a doubt.

  And as it pertains to designs that are now possible due to the advent of new materials, the affects of new string materials on bow performance, new arrow material etc. I whole heartedly agree.

  Outside of those things there really hasn't been much discovered in archery that is new since Klopsteg.

  When it pertains to tiller, I don't.

  Tiller is affected by too many variables. Add to that the fact that there are 2 distinctively different types of tiller static, and dynamic just as in arrow spine.

  The dynamic tiller (the profile the bow actually assumes when a particular archer draws it, and how the limbs return to brace for that particular archer for anyone wondering) is  affected by how the archer places their hand on the grip, how the archer places their fingers on the string to include the position of the elbow related to the arrow and string and so on. That being the case, the only way that proper dynamic tiller can be achieved for a particular archer as a general rule is for that archer to be standing there with the bowyer while the final tillering is done. And that doesn't typically happen. There are a few bowyers who can get pretty close to that based on the hand size of the archer, the way the archer is going to place his fingers on the string etc.. And they do it by using a special set up on their tillering tree.

  A bow when braced and at rest can appear to many to be "out of tiller". However, that same bow may very well shoot dead in the hand and silently for a particular archer based on the personal dynamics of that archers shooting. While at the same time it may rattle my teeth.


  So, that being said essentially the tiller that one gets is just whatever the particular bowyer considers to be "tillered for split" or "tillered for 3 under". 
Mike Reilly

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Reply with quote  #18 
I'm with Bisch and Thumper.  Shoot split but I tend to have a heavy ring finger and found even tillered bows shoot well for me.
hammerstone

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Reply with quote  #19 
Thanks for all the response . I've had a callus on my ring finger for many many years from shooting .
Sometimes I have to trim it back with fingernail clippers . Maybe I will start ordering all my bows tillered " three under " My newest a toelke Chinook should be here tomorrow . And here I was worried about it being 3 under . Thanks again .
Orion

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Reply with quote  #20 
If you develop a callus on your ring finger, you likely have your string arm elbow too high, which puts too much pressure on the ring finger at full draw and release.  Lower your elbow and get your string arm more in line with the arrow and the callus problem will go away.  
chuckc

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Reply with quote  #21 
Have someone take pictures or video of you shooting do you can see for yourself. I know my form is perfect, beyond reproach, right up until i see the danged video.
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ChuckC

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I did too !

Madison, Wisconsin.   Public land hunter
fdp

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Reply with quote  #22 
  Mine too Chuck.  [smile]
hammerstone

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Reply with quote  #23 
Honestly I really don't care if my form is good or bad as long as I'm happy with my accuracy and I am since I started shooting recurves again . I've tried elbow high low and in line and the callus never goes away , it's been there for 42 yrs . and , I think I would miss it if it were gone . Kinda comes in handy when I need to take a shot and my tab is in my pocket .
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