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Esskyl14

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Reply with quote  #1 
I have a 26 inch draw my bow is 46lb at my dl 68 inches long.
Shooting gold tip trads with 100gr insert and 150gr point
Arrows bareshaft perfectly full length. Only issue is there sticking out front a good 5 inches at full draw.
Any other short drawers deal with this.
Thanks kyle
Bisch

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Reply with quote  #2 
Why would that be a problem????? If they tune great, then that is the length they need to be!

I wouldn’t call myself a short drawer, as my DL is 29”. I shoot 34” long Widowmaker Smash shafts because they tune perfectly at that length!

If you want shorter, you are going to have to go with more weight up front on your current shaft, or go to the next lighter spine in your shaft.

Bisch

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Primal Tech longbow 50#@29”
Primal Tech recurve 50#@29”
Sarrels Blueridge longbow 50#@29”
Sarrels Bobcatt TD recurve 50#@29.5"
Rob Green selfbow 47#@29”
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I hail from about 4hrs southwest of Tim King! [biggrin]
Esskyl14

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Reply with quote  #3 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bisch
Why would that be a problem????? If they tune great, then that is the length they need to be!

Bisch

I guess that would be the only thing that matters.
They do the perfect.
thumper

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Reply with quote  #4 
I can't deal with them that long myself. Go to the next lighter spine if you want to cut them down.

Or better yet, switch to aluminum or wood. You can cut them short, and still run a sensible point weight and they have the weight built in.

But if the length doesn't bother you, you're good to go.
Esskyl14

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Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thumper
I can't deal with them that long myself. Go to the next lighter spine if you want to cut them down.

Or better yet, switch to aluminum or wood. You can cut them short, and still run a sensible point weight and they have the weight built in.

But if the length doesn't bother you, you're good to go.


I only care that they hit where I look really I just dont like the look of it.
Total arrow weight now is around 530.
I'd have to drop to 600 spine
chuckc

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Reply with quote  #6 
To me there are only a few reasons why long arrows suck. When, in the bow quiver, they stick so far down they touch the ground before the bow tip; when, in the back quiver they catch on all the branches that you are walking under; when in a blind, they stick out the window while at full draw.
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ChuckC

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I did too !

Madison, Wisconsin.   Public land hunter
Esskyl14

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckc
To me there are only a few reasons why long arrows suck. When, in the bow quiver, they stick so far down they touch the ground before the bow tip; when, in the back quiver they catch on all the branches that you are walking under; when in a blind, they stick out the window while at full draw.
Esskyl14

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Reply with quote  #8 
Agreed
Steve Graf

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Reply with quote  #9 
I think a lot of it depends on how much money and time you have to throw around...

That said, the extra 5 inches is like 50 grains of unused weight taped to the arrow.  Go down (at least 2 spine groups, imo) and put that weight back into the point and you have the same weight arrow, flying the same speed, with way more FOC.  

The described draw weight/draw length combo is a pretty low energy setup, and so if it was me, anything I could do to get better flight / penetration, I would do.  I'm in the same boat, my draw length is 26.5 now...

Chuck makes a good point too about long arrows getting tangled up.  I'm a mess in the woods.  Anything I can do to keep from tripping over myself is helpful.
fdp

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Reply with quote  #10 
 Personally I refuse to deal with that, but that's just me.

 There are way too many arrow shafts and components available out there these days to have to take a wildly statically over spined arrow and leave excessive length and add huge amounts of weight to weaken them enough dynamically.

 To me the only exception would be if I need to do that to reach a particular overall arrow weight or a particular point on distance.
Esskyl14

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Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fdp
 Personally I refuse to deal with that, but that's just me.

 There are way too many arrow shafts and components available out there these days to have to take a wildly statically over spined arrow and leave excessive length and add huge amounts of weight to weaken them enough dynamically.

 To me the only exception would be if I need to do that to reach a particular overall arrow weight or a particular point on distance.

If I dropped to 600 spine I'm not sure I'd get10 grains perlb
Old3Toe

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Reply with quote  #12 
There’s nothing magical about 10gpp. You’re shooting a 46lb bow and ering on the side of FOC and thin shafts. Focus on perfection of your tune and form—that’s where you’ll find the promised land.
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fdp

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Reply with quote  #13 
 Like Old3Toe said. 10grs. per pound is only a number. Actually doesn't mean a lot in the grand scheme of things.

 Just put together an arrow that flies well and put a good sharp broadhead on it. It will kill anything on this continent.
Esskyl14

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Reply with quote  #14 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fdp
 Like Old3Toe said. 10grs. per pound is only a number. Actually doesn't mean a lot in the grand scheme of things.

 Just put together an arrow that flies well and put a good sharp broadhead on it. It will kill anything on this continent.

I have taken 2 deer anda bear with my setup.
I dont go crazy on the foc butido try to have a little up front
fdp

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Reply with quote  #15 
Chain, just based on the design of an arrow you are always going to have a certain amount of FOC unless you have a really, really odd shaft/point configuration.


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