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ziplomacy

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Reply with quote  #1 
I repaired a bear target this spring with some great stuff, but now it needs to be repaired again, it's completely destroyed! Does anybody have any advice on repairing it? There's a good 10" hole where the kill zone used to be and most of its front legs are gone from missing low. It's in about the same shape as it was this spring only a little worse. The GreatStuff didn't last very long and was hoping for something better. Has anybody tried EA's Flex Foam-it? it looks pretty promising but a little expensive. 
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Osage Selfbow #55@28"
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Dzitterkopf

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Reply with quote  #2 
Just do what I do, hit it everywhere but the kill zone!!... Is the center a removable section?
chuckc

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Reply with quote  #3 
Actually, i generally do the same as D.
When the front half wears out i shoot the back half.

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ChuckC

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I did too !

Madison, Wisconsin.   Public land hunter
eddie c

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Reply with quote  #4 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckc
Actually, i generally do the same as D.
When the front half wears out i shoot the back half.


yep, basically 'picking a spot'.

go to the hardware store and get some dense foam sheets, cut out the bad section and replace with the sheets and paint. 

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ziplomacy

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Reply with quote  #5 
Not a removable section. It was used when I got it. It is about to rip in half from missing high. It's a small bear, about the size of a hog.  
I think I'll try the foam sheets.

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Osage Selfbow #55@28"
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Ben Pearson Cougar #37@28"

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James Donahue

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Reply with quote  #6 
Put a bag target behind it and shoot through the Hole?

or

stuff with those high density yoga blocks and morter up with spray foam?

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ziplomacy

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Reply with quote  #7 
Haha! I did actually do that for a little bit! 
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Osage Selfbow #55@28"
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Ben Pearson Cougar #37@28"

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Selden Slider

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Reply with quote  #8 
With a 10" hole I'd say it's pretty removable.  Make the hole as square as possible.   Cut out the same size square in high density foam and fit into place.  I did that to an old Delta Buck.  Only works for a short while.  Better off buying a new one.  

I got a lot of years out of a Mac Kenzie alert buck BY NEVER SHOOTING FIELD POINTS INTO IT.  When you use your 3D target with field points and then shoot BH's it's like connect-the-dots.  Before you know it chunks are falling out.  I only shot BH's into my 3D's and they lasted  years.  So long I had to paint them.  I used Morrell Eternity bag target with only field points.  Frank

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timking

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Reply with quote  #9 
I have used a product called 3D repair kit, but it’s as much as a new target.
It is very dense, in fact tougher than the original target usually

It’s also very temperamental

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Dallas, Texas
62" #55 Fox High Sierra 
62" #58 Black Widow MA
64" #56 A&H ACS 
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Gmr12508

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Reply with quote  #10 
I did a test of the different materials out there. Here is a link:


Bigmagic

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Reply with quote  #11 
I have a GlenDel buck target that has a replaceable kill zone. To replace the center used to be $76. plus tax. A friend of mine suggested I use that stuff you spray into cracks and it expands as it cures. I've done this three times to my buck target and it works great. 

Lay your target on its side and clean out as much of the loose stuff that you can. Attach the hose onto the can and start spraying the stuff down into the hole. Be sure to get into all the nooks and crannys that you can. When you are near completion, apply to about 1 inch below the surface because the stuff will expand so much that your buck will look like it has a huge tumor growing out the side. Let it dry for a few hours then turn it over and do the other side the same way.

I would recommend getting a 3-4 inch putty knife and spraying some cooking spray like Pam on the putty knife. After you are done, you just wipe it off and you won't have to throw the knife away. I bought the plastic kind because I thought because the stuff sticks to everything, I would have to throw it away. Then I thought what the heck, it can't hurt to try and sprayed the knife with Pam. It cleaned up like it was never used.

I would also suggest doing this outside on a piece of cardboard or something.

For me, this has extended my buck target for years and I am still using it after about 15 or more years.
timking

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Reply with quote  #12 
great tip!

Ive tried foam before, but didnt use the putty knife to control it...I will now

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Dallas, Texas
62" #55 Fox High Sierra 
62" #58 Black Widow MA
64" #56 A&H ACS 
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stickandstring

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Reply with quote  #13 
I have experience fixing layered foam targets. Same thing, the bullseyes get shot out and your arrows start blasting thru.

Harbor Freight Tools sell foam pads in packs of 4 very cheap. Designed to be walked on. Using spray contact adhesive coat target and pad, leave 30 minutes then press together.

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Tom M

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Reply with quote  #14 
My CA. shooting buddy maintains the targets on the clubs “members range”. He uses that high density foam that comes in 4x8 foot sheets about 6” thickness. He uses liquid nails as the adhesive. He has repaired targets that have been around forever. The one Elk i put up 8 years ago. Been repaired a number of times, painted different colors, legs repaired but still good enough to stop compound arrows. I shot it last Saturday. 
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Sun City, Az. by way of San Diego, Ca. Bear TD's Wes Wallace Royal LB, ILF risers and various limbs, Vintage Works 1962 Kodiak reproduction made to my specs

I hunt public land.
Steve Graf

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Reply with quote  #15 
The spray foam doesn't last as long as the original target, that's true.  But the repair is fast, easy, and cheap.  So why not?

My gripe with it was that it never took more than half the can to repair a target, the other half then being wasted.  But the spray foam manufacturers have improved the can by adding a valve at the end of the hose.  Now the foam does not harden in the hose and the can can be used until empty.

I didn't think it would work.  I figured it might extend the life a little bit, but not enough to matter.  I was wrong (again).  I used a can to for some repairs and stuck it on the shelf.  Picked it up a good 6 months later, and filled the hole in my bear target.  Nice!

So now it's even cheaper because you won't waste the extra foam in the can.  Might get two or more repairs out of a can.  
Soap Creek

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Reply with quote  #16 
Zip you've shot my home course. All my targets have been repaired multiple times. I start by digging out all the worst part. If really bad I fill with foam blocks (old replacement cores, or packing, what ever I have), then wrap with shrink wrap. Once that's done I poke a hole in the shrink wrap. Then I use the spray foam to fill, sticking the nozzle in the hole, both sides if need be. Let dry overnight, remove wrap and shave to the correct shape then paint. It will last quite awhile and is not very expensive. Some of my targets are 5+ years old and were used when I got them. Hoe this helps.
Deno

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Reply with quote  #17 
Good method  ^^^^^^  I do my repairs the same as Soap Creek.   

Deno

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United Bowhunters of New Jersey
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Howard Hill Wesley Special 70#
Howard Hill Big 5  65#
Jerry Hill Stalker Deluxe  60#
Jerry Hill Wildcat ll 50#


 

Northern New Jersey
Fallhunt

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Reply with quote  #18 

I most often follow James Donahue’s solution for 3D targets, square compression foam targets, and standard bag targets that have developed a dilapidated circularish area around the desired bull’s-eye spot which allows shoot-throughs. 

I add yet one further step to this fix by stuffing a plug into the archer’s side (front side) of the target.  Rarely, but occasionally, an arrow can find a path by following the junction between the plug and the damaged target. So, an arrow stop behind the target remains a good idea.

There are readily available spongy-foam dog toys and children toys that are colorful, various shapes (baseballs, softballs, footballs, light bulbs, etc.), all sorts of sizes, PLUS they are dirt cheap (~ $1 each).  They can be stuck into the soft spot of the worn target.  I find the football shape to be the most readily available shape that is easier to insert.  The light bulb is easiest, but that shape is not always readily available.  The spongy-foam is not durable enough to last a long time, but these toys are very quickly, easily, and cheaply replaced.  They also stand out as nice differently colored aiming spots that can add variety.


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Southern Illinois
HHA Legend Stick Longbows 45#, 50# & 53#
HHA Tembo Longbows 30#, 40# & 45#
Bear Montana Longbows 30#, 40#, & 50#
Lemonwood Self-Bow Longbow 30#
Ben Pearson Pony Longbow/Semi-Recurve 30# (Purchased New Summer 1966)
Ben Pearson Super Jet Recurve (All Fiberglass) 45# (New Jan. 1970)
Bear Super Kodiak Recurve 55#

PROUDLY an Irredeemable Deplorable

Orion

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Reply with quote  #19 
Lots of good advice re how to repair.  There does come a time, however, when it's time to replace rather than continue to pour more time, effort and money into it.   
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Reply with quote  #20 
I have aways been one to make spmething last a lot longer than most will do. Been using the cheap cans for years, I manage to get close to 10 years or more out of a 3D target because I don't care about it looks. I just give them a light coat of cheap spray paint and go on. I just tell friends that they have tumors LOL, I have seen several deer with them in the wild too. I will say that my targets mainly get used by me and my wife so not like at a club. I have also cut old effa foam broadhead targets to fit holes as well. The repair video was nice to know as well. I also use the same cans of insulation to make my ice chests more insulated.  Usually I go and look at a new 3D deer target and then get sticker shock. then just go buy another cheap can and fix my old one. I'm on a fixed income now but have always been this way. i could get another dozen arrows and broadheads for the cost of a new target. But it was good to see that others do this plus some of their fixes as well, lot of good ideas out there
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Soap Creek

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Reply with quote  #21 
I have 10 3D targets and think the most I paid for any of them was $100 . That was this year. Most I bought used at shoots I attended for $45 or less. I've been trying to buy one a year to keep my home course going. Doesn't seem so costly that way. I started off with just a few used 3Ds and some home made bag targets then slowly added till I got what I have now. It is pretty nice to have your own course. I definitely don't take it for granted, very thankful. Anyone  is welcome if ever in the neighborhood.  
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