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aromakr

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Reply with quote  #1 
Those of you that have known me for a while, no that I'm a fan of the Howard Hill broadhead, but not the cast aluminum ferrule. Many years ago I made some heads using the Hill blade with a steel ferrule, silver soldered to the blade. They worked well but were too heavy for my taste. So after Christmas this year I set out to make a lighter ferrule also of steel and included a slot to take a Bear bleeder blade.

Several years ago I was involved in a 4 way trade from the estate of Joe Caldwell. Joe was the Machinist who made the dies for the Hill blade that are still in use today. The dies were made in 1958. In that trade I received about 200 blades and the jigs that Joe used to make broadheads for himself using a machine turned aluminum ferrule. Some examples of Joes broadheads are pictured below. Notice the bleeder blade models.

Hill-Caldwell Broadheads2.jpg  In the next several posts, I will do a step by step build of my design broadhead. It might take a few days as I messed up the slotting saw to do the bleeder blade and I'm waiting for a new one to arrive, but will post more later today.
Bob


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fdp

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Reply with quote  #2 
I'll be interested in seeing this project.
chuckc

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Reply with quote  #3 
Awesome....thank you.
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longcruise

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Reply with quote  #4 
This is going to be fun.[smile]
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Old Sailor

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Reply with quote  #5 
Very interested!
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JD Berry Morning Star 54#@28, Northern Mist Classic 54#@28Sovereign Ballistik 60#28, Howatt Hunter 55#@28, Ben Pearson Mustang 46#@28

"But God demonstrates His own love towards us, in that while we were still sinners, Christ died for us."  Romans 5:8

"The problem is not guns, It's hearts without God, Homes without discipline, Schools without prayer, and Courtrooms without justice" ; unknown.

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aromakr

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Reply with quote  #6 
You can use most any steel rod for the ferrules, I used 12L14 this product has a small amount of lead in it that makes for easy machining but still has 60,000 PSI.

Before getting started I needed to make a 5 degree reamer and a mandrel with nock out rod. make broadhead  Apache bow 028.jpg  Then I cut my 3/8" dia. 12L14 into pieces 1 7/8" long
make broadhead  Apache bow 003.jpg  Place in lathe chuck and center drill each end. make broadhead  Apache bow 004.jpg  Next process it to drill 1/8" dia. hole 1.400 deep, then in same hole drill 3/16" to .940 deep. The 3/16" is the same dia. as the nose of the reamer, then ream hole with reamer same depth .940.
make broadhead  Apache bow 012.jpg  You now turn your attention to the out side of the ferrule. Set you compound to 5 degrees and place the mandrel in my collet attachment. Then place one of the ferrules on the mandrel and move the tail stock up against the center drilled end.
make broadhead  Apache bow 020.jpg  Now turn the point end of the ferrule for a length of .900 and a dia. of .200. the dia. is the same size as the slot in the broadhead blade, that will align everything true, blade to ferrule.
make broadhead  Apache bow 013.jpg  Now using the compound you previously set to 5 degrees you turn the outside of the taper.
make broadhead  Apache bow 013.jpg  make broadhead  Apache bow 014.jpg   The ferrule is now complete except for cutting the bleeder slot and the slot at the end of the ferrule that the blade slides into
   make broadhead  Apache bow 023.jpg  More next time.

  Bob




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chuckc

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Reply with quote  #7 
Are you running that lathe by hand, or auto drive ?
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I did too !

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aromakr

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Reply with quote  #8 
The next step is to cut the slot for the bleeder blade, that I do on my mill, with a rotatory head. The slotting saw is .014 thick and 1 1/2" dia.


make broadhead  Apache bow 024.jpg  A slot is cut in one side then the chuck is rotated 180 degrees and the other side of the slot is cut.
make broadhead  Apache bow 026.jpg  Next step is to cut a slot in the nose of the ferrule using a saw .050 thick and 5/8" deep. that will be in the next installment.

Bob



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alex123

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Reply with quote  #9 
Great stuff Bob....  Unfortunately I have no longer access to a workshop, but its still great to see your build...

I shoot light bows and Hill suggested, for 40lb bows, something quite a bit smaller than the ones you get fr0m Hill archery,

page 122, Hunting the Hardway (HTHW)
For women
weight if bow                 length of blade     width of Blade
35-40 lbs                        2.5"                      3/4"
40-50lbs                         2 5/8"                    7/8"

With regard to the Ferrule it is some old alloy of Aluminium called Duralumin(pg 120, HTHW ) and funnily enough there is a metal company called that in my city.. Keep meaning to go and look

Sadly I never got around to making the ferrule.  The blades would have been easy since I had access to a water cutter...  Oh those were happy days... 😉

Cheers
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Reply with quote  #10 
I don't want to interfere with Bob's excellent presentation, but for those of us who don't have the Machinery that Bob has, maybe Woody Weights could be made into a ferrule?
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aromakr

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Reply with quote  #11 
Alex:

I think Dural aluminum is an early term for the type that Howard used, If your going to use aluminum I'd use either 6061 or 7075, both of these have excellent tinsel strength and machine very well.

Longcruise:

I suppose there is several things that could be used as a ferrule, woody weights certainly, or a long field point.

Bob
 

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