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Fallhunt

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Reply with quote  #1 

I have been using arrow wraps on my aluminum arrows for quite some time now.  Among the claimed possible benefits, it seems to me that the most significant advantages for me are:

1. Aesthetics

2. Increased visibility

3. Enhanced adherence of fletching

I would likely still use arrow wraps should #3 not be true.

My archery pro-shop is closed due to the governor of Illinois.  I have plenty of replacement arrow points and arrow nocks, but I have always depended on my archery pro-shop for re-fletching.  Circumstances have caused me to consider acquiring the capability to fletch arrows. 

I have watched many arrow fletching instructional videos during the last few days.  Although not unequivocally clarified, several of the instructional videos seem to imply that the current popularity of arrows wraps is in part due to past encountered problems getting fletching to adhere to carbon arrows.  This has caused me to wonder whether this enhanced fletching adherence benefit is as important of a benefit for aluminum arrows as compared to carbon arrows.  It is just a matter of my curiosity.  I value arrow wraps for other benefits that I am certain still also apply to aluminum arrows.

Does anyone know whether fletching will adhere better to vinyl arrow wraps than to aluminum?


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HHA Legend Stick Longbows 45#, 50# & 53#
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Bear Montana Longbows 30#, 40#, & 50#
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chuckc

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Reply with quote  #2 
In my opinion. Yes
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ChuckC

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I did too !

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aromakr

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Reply with quote  #3 
That's kind of a loaded question, it all depends on how you prep your shafts and the glue used. If done correctly I would not expect any difference.

Bob

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Fallhunt

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Reply with quote  #4 

Thanks for the responses. 

Perhaps I should have asked whether arrow wraps have a greater benefit for carbon arrows rather than the benefit for aluminum arrows specifically in regard to causing better fletching adherence when comparing fletching adherence to carbon arrows or aluminum arrows without arrow wraps.


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Southern Illinois
HHA Legend Stick Longbows 45#, 50# & 53#
HHA Tembo Longbows 30#, 40# & 45#
Bear Montana Longbows 30#, 40#, & 50#
Lemonwood Self-Bow Longbow 30#
Ben Pearson Pony Longbow/Semi-Recurve 30# (Purchased New Summer 1966)
Ben Pearson Super Jet Recurve (All Fiberglass) 45# (New Jan. 1970)
Bear Super Kodiak Recurve 55#

PROUDLY an Irredeemable Deplorable

thumper

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Reply with quote  #5 
I have found that the super glue type glues stick extremely well to wraps. And I've never had a wrap peel at all. I don't even bother fletching a carbon or aluminum without a wrap. Not worth the trouble to me. Solid color wraps are cheap.

I just rub the shaft briskly with a dry paper towel, put the wrap on, rub the wrap with a paper towel, and glue the feathers on. Never any chemicals and never an adhesion problem. I use DAP Rapidfuse from the hardware store or blue top Gorilla super glue.

timking

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Reply with quote  #6 
What thumper said!
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Bisch

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Reply with quote  #7 
Idk whether wrap makes it easier or not, but I shot aluminum arrows for years. I never used wraps. I never had any problems with feathers not staying on my aluminum shafts. So, I can say wraps are not needed on aluminum shafts.

Bisch

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ziplomacy

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Reply with quote  #8 
I have just done up close to 3 dozen carbon shafts from different manufacturers w/out wraps. I use fletch tape and have had no problem, I usually clean the shafts, the last dozen I forgot and have had no issues with them. I have fletched a few aluminum arrows and like fletching tape for them as well. The only time I ever had issues was when my tape was getting old and had been left in the shop over the summer. Feathers fell off of every arrow I fletched with that roll. I have never used wraps, I like the looks but don't see a need to add more $$$ to an arrow I'm probably gonna break or lose at some point.
P.S. I hate fletchtite platinum, its messy and stinky and very particular about how clean the shaft is in my experience.

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ziplomacy

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Reply with quote  #9 
You won't regret having the tools to fletch your own arrow! It's a lot of fun and great for days when you can't get out to shoot.
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David Mitchell

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Reply with quote  #10 
I have never had a problem with feather adherence on either wood, aluminum, or carbon. You just need to make sure you properly prep the shaft and use the right glue.  I use Duco for wood, and Fletchtite platinum on carbon and aluminum.  I tried wraps once but not again.  True you can get a lot of different looks, but they are a pain to remove if you need to.  
Tom M

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Reply with quote  #11 
Like you I use wraps these days on my aluminum. I just don’t want to mess with dip tubes and Fletch Laq anymore. Aluminum arrow prep is simple, just hot water, Comet or Ajax cleanser, scrubb pad, and paper towels. Learned this many years ago from the pamphlet that came with the set of “dyi” arrows from Doug Kittridge.  Sure, you can buy a bottle of fancy “arrow prep” but why. Just run the shaft under hot water, scrubb with pad and cleanser, rinse rel well, and dry with paper towels. These days you need to leave nocks on because I don’t like water in the shafts. I also take the clean, dry shafts and wrap plastic wrap around the fletch area if I am not going to fletch right away. Depending on your area oxidation can start even over night. 
  Get the best fletching tool you can afford. That helps any learning curve easier. If you have any old shafts they would be good to learn on.
  The old wraps can be removed using a hairdryer and dull knife. Then clean shaft with a strong solvent like Acetone before scrubbing them down. Maybe over kill but I never lost a feather or vane from bad prep.

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Orion

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Reply with quote  #12 
Yes.  Arrow wraps enhance the gluing surface on aluminums and carbons.  There are all sorts of sob stories about fletching not sticking to aluminum or carbons, and folks go through all sorts of contortions/methods/glues, etc. to get feathers to stick to aluminum or carbon.  Put on a wrap and just about any glue will hold them tight.  
thumper

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Reply with quote  #13 
^^^ My thoughts exactly. 

 I'd bet with a bottle of super glue and cheap wraps, I could fletch arrows sitting in the rain and even drop one in the mud and still have serviceable arrows. [biggrin]
James Calamaris

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Reply with quote  #14 
All I do on aluminum is to wipe the shaft with a clean paper towel wet with MEK. Rub till they squeak and fletch with DAP Rapid Fuse. Don’t need wraps. Works on carbon but substitute denatured alcohol for MEK. Never loose any feathers.
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Reply with quote  #15 
Easton recommended cleaning shafts with AJAX Cleaner (blue on blue) shake style container. It is different from other cleaners and won't leave a residue. Use a clean paper towel and water then rinse to remove the oxidation. Let dry and keep fingers off the part cleaned.  I have used a vinyl lacquer, or Bohning product to dip before fletching with Plantinum Fletch Tite.  If you do dip, and use a different product, I would suggest experimenting. Fletch Tite can be too hot for most lacquers. Lacquers can be be stripped from the shaft with lacquer thinner in a dip tube, if you allow enough time.  If you do not dip, use the same PFT.
Tom M

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Reply with quote  #16 
Last time I wanted wraps I looked at the back of the ones I have and got the name 3M and went to Amazon to see how much for a whole sheet. Even their prices were better than what I have seen in archery retail catalogs. Course you have to cut them. But I went to Michael’s Craft store and bought 7sheets for 10 bucks on sale. Each sheet makes a doz wraps plus some extra. I even crest mine. Then I put a wipe on coat of Varathane waterbased Polyethylene. I have used Bohning fletch Tite, Saunders NPV glue, fletch tape, and Gorilla Super glue to fletch. So far all work well. 

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eddie c

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Reply with quote  #17 
30+ years ago I worked in the archery shop of a hunting goods store. One year I fletched over 144 dozen new shafts and refletch some customers brought in. Vanes and feathers. We cleaned with acetone. Bought fletch-tite in quart cans. Very little issues. Didn't have wraps.
When wraps got popular I bought some. The only problem I had was I couldn't replace just one feather or vanes without ruining the wrap. That's the only reason I don't use them. What ever glue I used stuck great.

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Reply with quote  #18 
If you want to re-fletch it is a lot easier to remove a wrap than scraping off a quill. I will never fletch an arrow again unless I use a wrap. I’m using the locktite super glue on the feathers then bead the ends with regular fletching glue.
Fallhunt

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Reply with quote  #19 

Thanks for all the responses.

My conclusions from the responses are that in regard to enhanced adherence of fletching to aluminum:

1. One does not really NEED arrow wraps when fletching is applied ideally on aluminum arrows.

2. Arrow wraps likely make it a bit easier to consistently apply fletching perfectly (in regard to adherence) on aluminum arrows.

3. Arrow wraps make it easier to re-fletch an aluminum arrow.

4. Arrow wraps increase the difficulty of only replacing one fletching at a time.

I already knew that fletching will remain adhered tightly to aluminum arrows when the fletching is attached ideally by my archery pro-shop.  After all, I have been shooting aluminum arrows without arrow wraps for 54 years.  I currently continue to shoot many aluminum arrows without arrow wraps.  It has been an extremely rare occasion to have an adhesion failure of a feather that that had been attached to my naked aluminum arrows by my archery pro-shop.  I have only been using arrow wraps for three or four years.  The responses in this thread might, however, cause me to reconsider my future use of arrow wraps. 

I very much like the appearance of arrow wraps in a non-functional, but aesthetic way.  My arrow wraps give me a bit more joy while I am looking at my arrows.  I do not consider this to be trivial.  Functionally I believe the arrow wraps make it easier for me to observe arrow flight.  This probably is an asset for training my subconscious to learn the arc of my arrows quicker and better to later adjust aiming elevation for different distances.  I am certain that bright white or brightly colored (e.g., fluorescent orange) arrows wraps make it easier for me to find my arrows while stump shooting.  Both my friend and I use 7-inch arrow wraps.  My friend uses white reflective arrow wraps.  One can return in the dark with a flashlight to easily recover lost arrows (most of time).

Prior to this thread, I was not cognizant of the possible increased difficulty that arrow wraps might cause when only replacing one feather at a time.  This seems to me to be an important consideration for me.  I envision one of the huge advantages for acquiring the capability to fletch my own arrows would be for the replacement of damaged feathers one at a time without the need to make a trip to my archery pro-shop.  Hopefully before our country is destroyed by this worldwide episode of ridiculous nonsense, our so-called leaders who have dropped the ball so badly by turning our country’s fate over to the one-issue “medical experts” rather than leading per the overall best interest of the country will come to their senses and resume their responsibility to quickly reopen our economy.  If so, I still intend to continue having my arrows made by my archery pro-shop (provided that they survive the debacle).

I suppose that as I gain experience from re-fletching my own damaged fletching on both aluminum arrows that have arrow wraps and those that do not have arrow wraps, I will naturally learn from first hand experience whether it is more beneficial for me to be able to replace one feather at a time easier or whether it more beneficial for me to be able to re-fletch all the feathers at once easier.


__________________
Southern Illinois
HHA Legend Stick Longbows 45#, 50# & 53#
HHA Tembo Longbows 30#, 40# & 45#
Bear Montana Longbows 30#, 40#, & 50#
Lemonwood Self-Bow Longbow 30#
Ben Pearson Pony Longbow/Semi-Recurve 30# (Purchased New Summer 1966)
Ben Pearson Super Jet Recurve (All Fiberglass) 45# (New Jan. 1970)
Bear Super Kodiak Recurve 55#

PROUDLY an Irredeemable Deplorable

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