I built mine with a few pieces of oak salvaged from an old shipping pallet.
For those of you that live in hardwood country you can probably find 2x stock.
Make your block approx 6" x 2 3/4 x 1 3/4.
I need shafts to spine between 70 to 85 # so I go large at 23/64.
Important, this hole needs to be exactly parallel with the top surface of the block so if you don't have a drill press then use a guide block with a hand drill. Don't just eyeball it.
Your hole needs to taper from your shaft size up to a little larger than the diagonal of you square shaft blanks you will use. Mine is 9/16"
The easiest, of course, is with a tapered reamer. This is what I will use on this block. On my first I step drilled as most of you will probably do.
Your taper will be the width of your block minus 1". Divide this length by the number of drills ( 64th or 32th) you have between your shaft size and the opening size you need and that will be the amount you will shorten each successive hole as you step drill.
With a drill press use the depth stop with a hand drill put tape on the bit.
64th will give a smoother taper but 32nd will work. You can clean it up with a round file.
If you don't have a drill big enough for your opening, go as large as you have and then use a round file to enlarge it. It would be hard to enlarge a hole from 3/8 so work up to a 1/2" bit if possible. Be careful to keep the hole as round as possible.
The rabbit extends from the top center of the exit shaft size hole to the end of the block.
The depth of the rabbit should just extend into the hole 1/32".
I used a stacked dado set on a table saw and sneak up on the depth a little at a time. I got in a hurry and really botched the job. It's hard to support the block while you dado to the end and you can see in the picture I didn't do a very good job. Its not pretty but it won't affect the way it works.
This could be done on a bandsaw, with a router, or by hand. If you handsaw it be sure to use some guide blocks to keep your cuts accurate.
Please ingore the extra hole and the awfull rabbit job. Really I normally do much better work than this.
Something has to keep me humble.
You will need to grind a slight radius (about 12" radius or so) to the cutting edge. Then grind in a new bevel, flatten the back and hone the edge very, very sharp.
If you are going to dowel tough springy wood like Doug Fir then it needs to be extremely sharp.
I honed mine down to 1500 grit and it still could have been sharper. Have to work on it some more.
Mount it with a screw and large washer so it is adjustable fore and aft. After you get it adjusted to give you the correct diameter shaft you can add another screw to lock it in place.
You will have to play around with it and keep adjusting the iron fore and aft to get the shaft size just right.
Holding your drill and shaft as straight in line as possible will get you a better shaft.
I can already see improvements I want to make. I think I will add a 3/4" piece to the front with a parallel hole to help keep the shaft straight as it enters the tapered hole.
Any questions post or pm me. Have fun and make a lot of shafts.
Now the hard part starts.........finding good straight grained boards.
Did I say RAZOR SHARP? Believe me!
ASL and Wood Arrow AddictCentral TexasCharter Member Traditional Archery Society
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